Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
